First I would like to thanks for any help that you could advice. Below is the history of this problem that currently still existed. - The car running fine about a year ago without any problems. - Six month ago engine check light on. After diagnostic I replace all four oxygen sensor then the car even running better. - Five month ago when my daughter driving she heard a poping noise where the battery Thanks very much to you USARET I will try the BST that you pointed out.

The BSD is Bit serial data Interface that bmw using to communicate between DME and alternator and some others devices. It just like we can use serial parallel usb or 1394 interface to communicate between one electronic device to the others. Thanks again I would like to ask if there are any way I can bypass the BST so the full current (Amp) what ever available by the battery can delivery to the starter.

Best Regards Quote Originally Posted by Bazoca Thanks very much to you USARET I will try the BST that you pointed out. The BSD is Bit serial data Interface that bmw using to communicate between DME and alternator and some others devices. It just like we can use serial parallel usb or 1394 interface to communicate between one electronic device to the others. Thanks again I would like to ask if there are any way.

Engine Tools - BMW X1 E84 (2013 - 2015). ICOM A safety tray and data cable hanger to prevent. And BMW Enhanced Interface Expansion (#EI07) $ 479.90.

Hi i need to replace the alternator on my 2006 bmw 650i convertible can some body confirm that the alternator on the following link is compatible with my car httpwww.ebay.comitmBRAND-NEW-GE.af3ec0&vxpmtr i got some doubts cause if i go to autozone the alternator compatible with my car is 155 Amp and the one on the link above is 180 Amp also i need to know if 2006 650i conv use a different alternator than 650i conv from 2007 on thanks Here is a link to a bmw parts website. Enter your serial number & it will find the correct alternator for your 650. Some alternators where made by either Bosch or Valeo so pick the correct one for your car. I think that it should be 180 amp The oil cooler lines do not have to be removed. The cooling fan needs to come out the top then the alternator has 2 bolts to remove. Make sure to disconnect your. Helo all after i installed the alternator everything looked good took it for a 5 mile test run all was good.

Two days later comin home from a 30 mile run my belt broke.when i installed the alternator i checked everything and pulleys looked good tensioner looked good. I dont know why my belt broke perfect condition Also where did you buy the belt Check the condition of the belt tensioner you may want to replace the tensioner and the idler pulley(s). Not sure how many idler pulleys your engine has. N52 (on my car) has 2 idler pullies. I did check the pully was brand new the alternator had the same serial numbers as the original. I got the belt from the same place i bought the alt from at bmwautoparts.com.

Put an expired battery in last winter. This winter it got low so I swapped it out at no cost. 2 months later the new one was dead.

Tested as good with low charge. Swapped anyway. Decided to check voltage at the battery and running it starts off at just the battery 12 or so then in a few seconds it jumps up and bounces around RIGHT AT 15. And seems to stay there at least for the few Do you have any faults in the dme for bsd interface or bit serial data if so then your alt is shot. Factory alt What amperage is it Ive seen brand new OEM alts spiking at 15v 14.4-14.8 is a decent voltage. IF your battery is low or you have high electrial demand it will up the voltage to help charge.

Quote Originally Posted by mguidry Do you have any faults in the dme for bsd interface or bit serial data if so then your alt is shot. Factory alt What amperage is it Ive seen brand new OEM alts spiking at 15v 14.4-14.8 is a decent voltage. IF your battery is low or you have high electrial demand it will up the voltage to help charge. I have a check engine yellow.I dont however have that high a.

I have read the threads about rebuilding alternators. My 2000 528i (999 build) alternator squeals intermittently when cold.

It is quiet once warmed up. I want to buy a used alternator to install while I do the rebuild. Can I use a Valeo alternator from a 323 build of 1298 for example. I cannot see the valeo part number while it is installed in the car for a more sure match. Thanks for looking and thanks more for sharing any tips.

Mike Get a mirror and flash light to look for Valeo serial Number. If not check realoem.com for PN compatibility. Bad news on the eve of a long road trip to Tahoe this weekend Its suddenly and unexpectantly my turn for the E39 TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG transmission failure error message.

After fueling up so that Im ready to leave before dawn early Friday morning the automatic transmission wouldnt shift out of high gear and showed the dreaded TRANS FAILSAFE PROG error message on the cluster. Changing plans I cancelled is that try to document and report back the results from every suggestion so this thread (hopefully) will be one that others can follow as long as good advice is given and taken. Quote Originally Posted by edjack Read the P-codes and report back. Unfortunately all I have handy is a basic OBD scanner which reports only a pending P0171 which I dont think is the problem - All OBDII codes including bmw-specific Quote Originally Posted by HTK12 why would you want to get serial cable I dont want a serial cable but thats all I have at hand this moment. What I want is a USB cable so I can use it with INPA.

Quote Originally Posted by HTK12 So you only need a cable like this for you car. See what I mean I looked at that listing but it doesnt say a thing about how the two K lines are configured Preferred cable (with track. Got the message and car went to limp mode (locked in third gear). Dutifully searched the blogs and got many suggestions.

Mostly around low battery or alternator probs and some suggesting fuses. Battery good alternator good couldnt find a blown fuse (but later did). Got codes read by a friend. P0051 powertrain - HO2S Heater control P0031 powertrain - HO2S Heater control P0600 powertrain - serial. Hi All I have a 2002 bmw 325 ci (E46).

Beautiful car works great. The trick here is that I got it at a really good price from a guy who - at that time - owned a junk yard.

He told me that the original engine blew up and was offered the car for about 2000 or so. He bought it and replaced the blown up engine with another from a bmw he had in his junk yard.

Question is Im not sure if he really replaced First off the odometer is not connected to the engine itself but is connected to the engine computer that was prolly not changed. Second are you having problems with the engine that you care rather or not it was changed I do not know if bmw stamps the engines with the veh vin it was installed. But I do know from my motor that there is a serial plate on the ds of the motor stamped into the block right. AAA is towing my car in 30 minutes (total electrical failure). Unfolding story - E39 wouldnt start this morning for some reason (unknown) - Charged with a battery charger for 12 hour car started fine - No lights on the dash whatsoever no abnormal running - Drove 25 miles enough to charge battery shut down car - Car would not start.

Got another jump from a passerby - With jumpers car started Quote Originally Posted by doru when running my alt shows about 13.7V. Not sure about the alternator brand Mine showed less than 12 volts at idle. I forgot to rev it up so Ill try that next and see if it changes the number at all.

But its looking like the alternator is kaput ( maybe thats the noise I heard over in this thread ). As for the brand of alternator I was confused by REALOEM because it showed three for my serial number - 90 amp Valeo alternator - 120 amp Bosch generator. Only charge the battery from the terminals under the hood. The charge circuit in the car limits the amperage to the battery to prevent damage to it based on age and condition. Bypassing this and charging directly to the battery will make the circuit think its weaker than it is and then limits the alternator charge amperage to the battery while driving. Over time the battery will create a Yes I do understand what ground means I apologize.

I did not intend to offend you or anyone. I only meant for the reader (any reader) of my post to understand that it can be dangerous if they do not know what they are doing.

I can imagine it now. Honey the meter blew up in my face. I read how to do it on a web site. Sincerely I meant nothing towards you. Here is some of what I found from bmw. I own a 2008 328i.

A year ago I upgraded the base stereo system with Jehnert speakers Kenwood Excelon 2-din deck and JL Audio amp. Thank you to Technic for all the feedbacksupport.

It sounds great btw. After several months my Exide battery started giving in. I only put about 8000 milesyear and after five years of using my car mostly for short trips and banging my new car sterreo even when idle at red go traffic to work. I dont hit the highway on a daily basis. Ever since I got the new battery I used the ctek only once and the DME turned off my car stereo the very next morning on a fully charged new battery. Thats when I realized the problem lied with the IBS. And yes I meant to say IBS not ISB.

Also BSD does not stand for Battery Safety Device as fdriller9 suggested but it stands for Binary serial. Has anybody ever replace the alt on there car i have an 03 540 m sport and need to do the work myself alt comes in on monday.any tips would be appreateated Quote Originally Posted by resharp001 I think that the liquid cooled alternator on the 540i is a bit overdesigned. I tried to price the 525i 2002 E39 sedan alternator but the realoem pages give me THREE choices. I dont know how to choose between them (even though I gave Realoem my serial number from my VIN). Do you know which of the three alternator choices would be on my non-sport 525i.

This is probably going to be of limited interest but I was looking for a car charger that would charge my various mini-usb device and live in the armrest. I wanted something low profile enough that I could charge a cell phone with the armrest closed. That way on a long trip I can keep my phone charged and connected to Idrive via bluetooth. It turns out that the OEM blackberry chargers than you can computer from totally shutting down the system and causing a parasitic drain on the battery which eventually damaged it. The dealership replaced my battery under warrantee (it was only 2 12 years old) as a courtesy.

I dont know if they did or not as I didnt record the serial number of the original battery. I just trust them. Now I dont know whether the parasitic drain explanation is true or not.

I had to have the right side adaptive headlight module replaced. I am curious as to Programming the Moudule It took about 4 hours. What is programmed and why does it take so much time. Audi Serial Number Decoder. Quote Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY Have seen no reason at all for bmws grossly long programming times. Should take maybe 10 sec. To load code.

Maybe theyre using 1200 baud. Would that be disappointing Ive done some embedded programming work on systems like that. They can be ungodly slow sometimes. You are often updating over a very slow RS-232 serial cable and the memory controllers have long erase Quote Originally Posted by Squidget Ive done some embedded programming work on systems like that. They can be ungodly slow sometimes. You are often updating over a very slow RS-232 serial cable and the memory controllers have long erase cycles. A 48K bank could take half an hour to reprogram due to various issues.

Course that was back in the 1990s. Could they use faster stuff Sure. Would there be any. Hey guys So the other day (in the midst of working on my coolant system) i pulled into my house from driving home from work (45 mins) and parked on a hill. Popped the hood and started bleeding my coolant system. Then i got in the car and was feeling the air. And heard a pop noise.

Looked at my radio and it was off. Tried to turn it on. Then i noticed the AWD light came on on the a big drop in charge. Yes your regulator seems to be gone which is basically the heart of the alternator.

Hmm can not tell you from the top of my head as there a few models which all use different kinds of regulators. On the back of the regulator there should be a part number that you can use to get a replacement.

Also there should be a number kind of stamped on the alternator itself (kind of a serial. Hey everyone I have been a devout searcher of your forums for about 2 years and am very glad to finally register and be a part of the community. Usually searching through your forums was all I needed to do to figure out a problem but this current problem I am having I cannot find an answer to. Ok so here goes My battery light stays on constantly all the time it has been on since the end of December Quote Originally Posted by joe540i im sorry could you be more specific With the key on do you mean with it on position 2 And if i get 7 volts or so does that mean the alt is good Also should i use the multimeter or the OBD Use a multimeter.

You are testing the Bit serial Data line (BSD). Unplug it from the alternator and with the key in KL15 (pos 2) you should get about 7 volts but it should fluctuate. My Car is only 2008 but it appears the battery needs replacing. I was going to go ahead and just get an ordinary lead acid calcium battery until I read that if the car has Stop Start fitted as mine does you have to use an AGM battery. I initially presumed this was because Stop Start increases the work load of the battery and an ordinary battery wont last the pace.

I decided I would fit an ordinary Excessive charging current and temperatures will age a battery before its time and can even be dangerous. When you overcharge a battery essentially you are manufacturing hydrogen.

Heres the magic fix When an AGM battery wont charge by ordinary means simply connect a Hot rodders are tough on batteries but the extreme heat and vibration we deal them arent the half of it. Between these rounds of serial.

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